How the Trip Came To Be
Where can I go to transport myself to another dimension? I asked myself this before deciding that place was Fogo Island, an island off the coast of Newfoundland, in Canada. It is difficult to state why this place is one-of-a-kind— it’s the salt air, the whipping winds, the changing weather, the wild landscape, the quaint homes, the friendly locals–with a lot of magic added to the mix.
Journeying there took a bit of planning and forethought, but the result exceeded my expectations. I have been reading about Fogo Island and the Inn, in particular, for years and had planned to visit right before March of 2020 when Covid-19 caused the world to pause.
Fortunately, after booking a year in advance, I was able to secure a 3-night stay in July of 2022, and I only wish it could have been longer. With my childhood friend, Verlon, in tow, we were off.
Getting There
Fogo Island Inn’s website offers information on how to get to the Inn; we decided, since it was summer and there are daily flights to Gander from Toronto, that we would fly from Atlanta to Toronto and overnight at the Sheraton right at the Toronto Pearson airport. This was a smart decision. The hotel was easy to find, had sleek features with a surprisingly delicious restaurant, and gave us quick access to the terminal for our flight the next morning to Gander. In Gander we picked up our rental car at Avis (we booked a year in advance), and that took less than two minutes. Easy peasy. Then, it was off to catch the ferry to Fogo Island.
At first, we were nervous about driving a car onto the ferry and even watched YouTube videos on it prior to the trip, but it was simple and not scary at all. We made sure to get to the ferry in order to line up at the ticket booth at least 90 minutes in advance, as suggested. Fogo Island Inn will send you the ferry schedule and directions to make your way to the Farewell Ferry. I used Google maps on my phone, and it worked perfectly. The drive from Gander airport to the ferry took us less than one hour, and it was scenic and serene. We were actually first in line!
The Ferry
The ferry ride was relaxing and gave us 45 minutes to sit on deck in the sun and take in the clean air and majestic beauty that surrounded us. Once we docked, it was off to the Inn. The drive took us through cozy hamlets that were from another era. This adds to the special nature of the island.
The Inn
As we neared the entrance, the Inn, in all its glory, rose from the rocky shores like a sentinel welcoming us to this remote, unspoiled land. The architectural masterpiece cannot be captured in words; it is simply a stunning structure.
A member of staff greeted us in the parking lot and ushered us out of the wind and into tranquility. From that moment to the moment we left, genuine hospitality and warmth enveloped us to the point where we felt like family. I can’t stress enough how special that feeling is, and after traveling the world, I don’t think I have ever experienced it anywhere else. This is one reason visitors come from all over to enjoy the Inn.
Our room, number 3, happened to be on the first floor and had the most incredible view. All rooms at the Inn have amazing views, but there was something about being low and close to the landscape that made us feel like we could reach out and touch the scenery. At night we would keep the window open to listen to the crashing waves and crooning of seagulls. The rooms have no televisions to promote peace and tranquility, and the furnishings are locally made and so fitting to the Inn’s decor. From the bespoke wallpaper depicting scenes from the island to the handmade quilts on the beds, the rooms are adorable, cozy, and comfortable.
After getting settled in our room, it was time for dinner. The food at Fogo Island Inn is inventive, masterful, and thoughtful. In each bite, you can feel the love from Chef Tim and his talented staff. The menus change depending on what is available and seasonal, and sustainability is at the forefront of the cuisine as is stated on the website. I knew the food was going to be tasty, but it, too, exceeded all expectations I had. Having eaten at countless Michelin-starred restaurants that were not even half as good as the dishes at the Inn, I wondered why the restaurant didn’t have at least one star. It certainly deserves consideration since most every item to hit the plate is made in-house with quality ingredients. Many items are also foraged or even preserved, and the think-tank approach the team uses to conceive each dish is admirable. I was able to meet with Ben, the sous chef, and get a kitchen tour. It was fun to watch the precision used to assemble each component of each dish. Tasting spoon in hand, I tried slow-simmered lobster broth, the most delicious cod foam that was rich and flavorful, and foraged greens. The pickled quince at lunch one day was perhaps one of the best bites I have ever eaten.
Take notice: there is true magic coming from this kitchen. It was truly overwhelming. And, don’t even get me started on the bread…perfection!
One option for dinner is to enjoy a family-style meal of fresh crab, mussels, cod, and delicious sides served in what is known as the “shed”– not a shed at all but an outbuilding designed for a small group to enjoy a meal together. They will ask you if you’d like to participate in the shed experience in lieu of dinner in the dining room one night during your stay. We highly recommend this, as I have never eaten crab that fresh, ever. Plus, it was an opportunity to chat with other guests and swap stories from our day’s adventures.
One highlight of staying at the Inn is being able to book daily excursions with the assistance of Sonya and Sondra, two of the nicest people you’d ever meet. They help each guest decide what they would like to do from a menu of opportunities like meeting with a local guide and learning the history of the island, going on the countless hikes around the island, meeting local artisans and shopping for handmade goods, and even making jam with a local in her home.
There are so many activities we wanted to do but just didn’t have the time to experience all of them. For the first full day, we chose the Lion’s Den hike– a must– in the morning after breakfast and then a guided tour of the neighboring villages in the afternoon with Sonya’s dad, Martin. The entire day was the absolute best experience ever. I asked Martin about cod fishing and how the industry has changed; I also wanted to learn about how the island is being affected by climate change. Martin answered all of our questions and drove us to important historical sites. He even showed us his childhood home and his brother Phil’s famous workshop, a shed designed as a space for locals to get together for music and drinks. His warmth and grace made us feel so at ease, and because he was a former teacher, I knew I would like him!
Our second day, we chose to do a walk around the property and take photos of the Inn, go on a shopping excursion to several artisans’ workshops, and join a resident in her home to learn to make red currant jam. It was another memorable day!
A very special touch at the Inn is the morning basket left at guests’ doors. Upon arrival, they ask about your preference for coffee or tea, and then each morning when you awake, there is a cute wooden basket outside the door with carafes of your beverage and pastries. The best part– drinking coffee in bed and gazing out the floor-ceiling windows at the indescribable scenery.
I am going to reiterate– this place is special. There is so much attention to detail that nothing gets overlooked. The atmosphere is warm and inviting. We arrived as guests and left as part of the Fogo Inn family, longing to return again.