A Week in Portugal - Dish and Discover

As a travel destination and retirement hub for expats, Portugal’s popularity has soared, and for good reason. Linnie and I traveled there in March of 2022 to check it out.

The question for us was how do we cover the country in a week? The short answer to this is that it can’t be done, at least not well. So, knowing that, we focused on two areas, Porto and the route south to Lisbon, hitting the famous Douro Valley and the quaint towns en route to the capital city.

We made the choice to leave the Algarve for the ubiquitous “next time”– something we tend to say a lot as we travel to different places! Enjoy our journey, and hopefully this post will give you ideas for your itinerary to lovely Portugal.

Porto

We flew from Atlanta to Porto and began in the North. Porto, the home to port wine and the city that gave the country its name, was absolutely stunning; in fact, we liked it better than Lisbon given its size, creative energy, and array of activities.

Porto Hotel

We stayed at the Intercontinental Hotel due to its location and positive reviews. It was everything travelers said it was, and more.

What to Do in Porto for 3 days:

Walk the city and get the lay of the land. Make sure to go straight to the waterfront to gaze upon the Douro River and the double-decker Dom Luis I bridge. It connects Porto’s downtown Ribeira district to the Port wine houses of Vila Nova de Gaia.

Take a culinary walking tour for several hours with a guide. We always do this the first day we arrive. Usually, we land in the morning, get to the hotel and check in, walk around for a while and grab a coffee, then we go on a walking food tour of the city. It is the best way to get oriented, learn tips and tricks from a local, and sample the treats the city is known for. In this case, it was Pastel de Nata, Super Bock beer, the most delicious pork sandwich called Bifanas à Moda do Porto, two different types of cod fritters, and local meats and cheeses. A culinary introduction to a city is the best introduction of all.

Shop the cute boutiques as you wander the neighborhoods of Porto and get lost in the maze of narrow alleyways.

Schedule Port tastings and try all of them. One of our favorites was on the other side of the bridge in Villa Nova de Gaia at Fonseca. Be sure to try the white ports all over the city. What a revelation! Ports are even used as mixers and make the most fabulous cocktails. Our favorite was called the River and Sea at the hotel bar.

Visit the Church of the Clerics and climb the bell tower for stunning city views. Take your time as there are alcoves containing artwork and artifacts as you ascend.

Visit one of the most beautiful bookstores in the world called Livaria Lello, said to have inspired J.K. Rowling when writing the Harry Potter series. It definitely looks right out of Hogwarts. Get there early so that you don’t have to wait in a long line. Every tourist wants to visit, and they limit capacity since it is rather small.

Take a Douro Valley Private Tour and explore wine country with a guide. It’s best to do a private tour, if you are able, in order to get to as many tastings as possible. This was our favorite activity. Our guide was amazing, and he really created an immersive experience for us.

Tip: Ask your guide to take you to Quinta da Fonte do Milho and meet the owner who is committed to sustainable wine production. This is a very small, special winery where the owner engages with visitors and walks the vineyards with you, tastes the wine and answers questions, and serves delicious local cheeses, olives, olive oil, and fresh warm bread from down the road. What a wonderfully authentic experience.

Then, make sure to have lunch at Hotel Quinta da Pacheca and order the famous Duck Rice, their signature dish, before taking a cellar tour and having a tasting. We loved this winery and actually bought 6 bottles of their port and shipped it home. This place is absolutely stunning and a must-see.

Admire the masterful tile work and sidewalks.

The Portuguese are masters in creating something that is supposed to be merely functional into works of art. Look at the sidewalks and buildings, and take lots of pics!

Best Way to Get to Lisbon from Porto

You have options here: taking a train, hiring a driver, or renting a car. We chose to take a one-way transfer with a driver. The transfer included stops at notable towns along the way. Our driver was so friendly and professional and asked us if we knew which stops we wanted to make. Through research, I knew some of the towns I wanted to see, and he also suggested others. It was perfect. Here are the towns we chose:

Aveiro: an old fishing village recognized by its canals and colorful boats.

Nazaré: one of the finest beach towns in the country and made famous by its monstrous waves and host to big wave surfing.

Obidos- a quaint medieval town that is known for its cherry liqueur called Ginjinha d’Obidos.

Lisbon Hotel:

Arriving in Lisbon after a day of exploring towns along the drive was refreshing. Our driver took us right to the hotel, Tivoli Avenida Liberdade served as a comforting respite in the middle of the city, a place we would walk back to at the end of each day and enjoy tea or a cocktail. I cannot recommend this hotel highly enough.

What to Do in Lisbon for 3 Days

An absolute MUST: take a private guided trip to Sintra (visit Pena Park and Palace) and Cascais

Why a private tour instead of a small group excursion? I have realized after 15 years of nearly non-stop travel that time is everything. For a few more dollars, I book private excursions, when I can, and can actually visit more sites, engage with the guide and ask questions, and truly get to know a place on a deeper level. This tour, in particular, went beyond my expectations because our guide spent a lot more time in Sintra than what group tours offer. That meant more quality time in the fascinating Pena Palace and its surrounding park. Out of all the castles I have visited in Europe, this may be my absolute favorite because all of its artwork and artifacts are intact.

Visit St. George’s Castle

Walk there or take trams 28 or 12 to get you close to the top and marvel at this ancient fortification that stands as a beacon above the city. You have the option of taking a guided tour or a self-guided tour. We chose the self-guided option and took our time to explore every area.

Go to Belem and stand in line for the original Pasteis de Nata. You will not be sorry, especially if you have eaten them all over Portugal before you bite into these delights. They were the best I had the entire week. It’s something about the crispiness achieved with the crust and how they are served warm. Be still my heart!

Visit the Time Out Market for a drink or a meal. It is noted for some of the best food in Lisbon.

Have drinks at SEEN and dinner at Belcanto.

SEEN, a popular restaurant and bar at the top of our hotel, The Tivoli Avenida Liberdade, is known for its creative cocktails with a view.

Belcanto, one of the top 50 restaurants in the world, is worth the splurge for chef José Avillez’s inventive take on modern Portuguese cuisine. It has earned him two well-deserved Michelin stars.